Antarctica!
Neko Harbour, Graham Land, Antarctica - photo by Nick Tozer |
In early 2011 I had the distinct pleasure of participating in an OAT voyage to Antarctica aboard the M/V Clelia II! From the
ship we made six separate landings along Graham Land, and adjacent islands, on the Antarctic Peninsula. I boarded the ship in Ushuaia, Argentina, the
world's southernmost city, where we exited the Beagle Channel to make our way across the Drake Passage - sailing for just over two days to reach Antarctica.
I think I've heard it suggested that the "Drake ain't a lake, it's a shake!" Boy, whoever said that had it right! The Drake is considered the roughest stretch of water in the world due to the "Circumpolar Current" being squeezed through this relatively narrow (1,000 kilometre/600 mile) gap between the tip of South America and the Antarctic Peninsula. The current flows at 140 million cubic metres (tonnes) of water per second - or about the equivalent of 5,000 Amazon rivers or four times the size of the Gulf Stream. Combined with the strong winds that blow almost constantly, the Drake provided our group with seas that occasionally peaked at 4.5 metres (15 feet) - not huge by maritime standards but enough to keep me and 60% of my shipmates either vomiting or in bed! Despite the Drake Passage I had a wonderful trip that included a really good look at Antarctica and its wildlife in addition to pleasant explorations of Argentina and Brazil on my way back home. The pictures, links, and text below should help tell the story - feel free to contact me with any questions! February 2011 |
Antarctic Treaty System
Our parents' generation did an extraordinary thing during the Cold War - they created the Antarctic Treaty. My own generation, in 1991, (during the 30 year referral period) agreed to not only extend the agreements but to expand the protections. Our own children and grandchildren will be challenged to continue the tradition (in light of a burgeoning human population and dwindling resourced) in 2041 when the Madrid Protocol review process begins...For a definition, the Antarctic Treaty and related agreements, collectively called the Antarctic Treaty System or ATS, regulate international relations with respect to Antarctica, Earth's only continent without a native human population. For the purposes of the treaty system, Antarctica is defined as all of the land and ice shelves south of 60 degrees latitude. The treaty, entering into force in 1961 and eventually signed by 47 countries, sets aside Antarctica as a scientific preserve, establishes freedom of scientific investigation and bans military activity on that continent. The treaty was the first arms control agreement established during the Cold War.
The main treaty was opened for signature on December 1, 1959, and officially entered into force on June 23, 1961. The original signatories were the 12 countries active in Antarctica during the International Geophysical Year (IGY) of 1957-58. The 12 countries had significant interests in Antarctica at the time: Argentina, Australia, Belgium, Chile, France, Japan, New Zealand, Norway, South Africa, the Soviet Union, the United Kingdom and the United States. These countries had established over 50 Antarctic stations for the IGY. The treaty was a diplomatic expression of the operational and scientific cooperation that had been achieved "on the ice".
Click Here for the Waypoints I collected while in Antarctica... |
(Click on any of this page's "thumbnail" images for a larger view)
M/V Clelia II
As I mentioned above, we made our way to Antarctica aboard the expedition ship MV Clelia II out of Ushuaia (the world's southernmost city!). Throughout our voyage we found the Clelia II to be comfortable and in good repair. However, there were serious concerns before our departure that the ship may not be able to sail due to a high seas mishap just seven weeks earlier. On December 8th (2010) the Clelia II had to limp back to port after having lost an engine in a severe storm with 30 foot waves off the coast of Argentina. According to ship personnel, a rough wave broke through the bridge's windshield knocking out some of the engine controls. A year prior (December 26, 2009) the Clelia II went adrift in strong currents off Petermann Island and had to be pulled to safety by sister ship Corinthian II. Again, our own experience aboard the Clelia II was that of comfort and safety - despite 15 foot waves we were in no danger and completely enjoyed the experience (except for a bit of seasickness...).
1. Our huge closet! |
2. Watching the sea |
3. Our cabin |
4. Calm seas |
5. Rough seas |
6. Seat belts! |
7. Mandatory safety drill |
8. Bridge |
9. Satellite email @ $0.45 USD/min |
10. Tug harbor guide |
11. M/V Clelia II |
12. M/V Clelia II |
13. Teddy and Tami |
14. Fine dining |
15. Stairwell |
16. Tami, Gabor, & Alicia |
17. Stephen, Marilyn, Nick, Gary |
18. Gary and Kay |
19. Tami |
20. MV Clelia II |
21. Tami |
22. Waiting to get back aboard |
23. Tami |
24. My constant companion! |
Click Here for a YouTube video of the Clelia II in calm water... |
Click Here for a YouTube video of the Clelia II in rough water... |
Click Here for my YouTube video of the Drake Passage outside our porthole... |
Zodiac boats
The use of these inflatable, Zodiac-style boats is how we made regular trips from the ship to the Antarctic shore each day. In a couple of the pictures, If you look closely, you can see a small mast and ball configuration at the rear of each Zodiac that's used to reflect radar signals so the rubber crafts can be identified. Sometimes the water was so rough we weren't able to safely enter the Zodiacs adjacent our ship - a common problem on the high seas and even inside the coastal inlets of Antarctica.
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36. Gretchen, Claudia, & Gary |
37. Sandi, Betsy, Tami, Marilyn |
38. Betsy, Tami, Marilyn |
39. Sandi, Betsy & Tami |
40. Nick & Tami |
41. Kay & Gary |
42. colleen & Tami |
43. Aqil, Tami, & Gee |
44. Gary |
45. Tami |
46. Me |
47. |
48. |
Click Here for my YouTube video of our Zodiac ride... |
Click Here for another YouTube Zodiac video... |
Boot decontamination
In a 2011 .pdf file, the IAATO (International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators) states, "While there is presently no conclusive evidence that tourists have introduced or transmitted diseases or any alien material in Antarctica, there is indirect and circumstantial evidence that raises concerns. Further, there is acknowledged potential for visitors to be vectors of disease, both into and within the Antarctic ecosystem. The Antarctic tourism industry, on its own initiative, recognized these concerns nearly a decade ago and began implementing procedures to address the possible introduction of alien organisms into Antarctica." In response, our ship, and all the others we encountered in Antarctica, made a special effort to clean everyone's boots, pants, and other clothing anytime leaving or returning to the ship. We were also advised that these procedures reduced the possibility of contaminating one penguin colony with debris from another. Made sense to me!
49. Toilet brush |
50. Boot storage |
51. Disinfectant |
52. Disinfectant |
53. Our locker |
54. Boot scraper |
55. Clothing check! |
Click Here for my YouTube video of our boot cleaning... |
La Base Presidente Gabriel González Videla, Antarctica (Chile)
Antarctica has no permanent residents, but a number of governments maintain permanent manned research stations throughout the continent. The number of people conducting and supporting scientific research and other work on the continent and its nearby islands varies from about 1,000 in winter to about 5,000 in the summer. Many of the stations are staffed year-round, the winter-over personnel typically arriving from their home countries for a one-year assignment. The Antarctic summer, of course, also sees tens of thousands of tourists (like me and Tami!) with many bases welcoming visitors to showcase some research or museum, sell a few t-shirts, or maybe even exchange a visit to a ship for a different meal, supplies, or shower.I suspect some countries, especially Chile and Argentina, maintain a greater presence on the continent because they believe their territorial claims supersede the ATS. Nevertheless, Base Presidente Gabriel González Videla and other locations welcomed us with open arms and genuine hospitality. Base Presidente Gabriel González Videla is also used to coordinate search and rescue efforts. Also, while we were on the base, I was invited to share a private drink and political discussion (be careful!) with the commanding officer - an especially memorable experience!
56. Welcome to the base! |
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58. |
59. Museo |
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63. Lester & Bagshawe historical site |
64. Leucistic Gentoo penguin |
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66. |
67. |
68. Me and a whale vertebrae |
69. Lookout tower |
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72. |
73. Local brew! |
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75. Kay, Tami, & Bob |
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89. Peter Damish and Tami |
90. Tami and the officer |
91. |
Click Here for my YouTube video of penguins walking across Base Presidente Gabriel González Videla... |
Click Here for my YouTube video of the Drake Passage outside our porthole... |
Click Here for my YouTube video of us glissading at Neko Harbour... |
Port Lockroy, Antarctica (United Kingdom)
Port Lockroy is located in a natural harbor in the British Antarctic Territory. The 1904 French Antarctic Expedition discovered it in 1911 after which is was used for whaling between 1911 and 1931. The British military used is during World War II for "Operation Tabarin" - an effort to occupy certain parts of Antarctic territory to provide communications and maybe even a diversion activities during the war.Port Lockroy was renovated in 1996 and is now a museum and post office where Tami and I mailed cards back to friends and family during our trip! Operated by the United Kingdom Antarctic Heritage Trust, Port Lockroy is designated as Historic Site # 61 under the Antarctic Treaty. Port Lockroy remains one of the most popular tourist destinations in Antarctica and uses funding from its small souvenir shop for upkeep of the site and museum. I especially enjoyed the display of old radio equipment and have posted an additional photo on my Morse code page.
Interesting to note, too, that Port Lockroy is conducting a penguin population study around their facility. So far, as of this posting, their unofficial findings are that human contact with Penguins may be increasing their population slightly. This might be due, in part, to the human presence scaring-off some of the predators that prey on the penguin chicks, etc. They estimate they'll have about 11,000 human visitors during 2011 season...
92. Chris the greeter! |
93. Tami |
94. Kitchen |
95. |
96. |
97. Radio room |
98. Sleeping quarters |
99. |
100. Ionospheric testing |
101. Ionospheric testing |
102. Spare parts |
103. |
104. |
105. Volunteer staff housing |
106. Bransfield House |
107. Whale jawbone |
108. Tami |
109. |
Click Here for my YouTube video tour of Port Lockroy |
Whaler's Bay, Deception Island, Antarctica
Deception Island is the largest of three active volcanic centers in the South Shetlands. It is ring-shaped and 9 miles (14.5 kilometres) diameter, enclosing the large harbor of Port Foster, which is also the caldera of the ancient volcano. Captain Roos and his crew navigated the Clelia II through Neptune's Bellows, the narrow pass into the caldera. It was there then that we landed at Whaler's Bay where we viewed the remains of the Norwegian whaling station and hut that were evacuated in 1967 after the eruption of the volcano. Whaler's Bay is also where I took the "Polar Plunge."Krill vs. Salps: Below you'll see an entire row of pictures of "Salps" that had washed ashore while we were in Whaler's Bay. These small creatures are in direct competition with Antarctic Krill. It appears the Salps are starting to gain on the Krill because warmer atmospheric temperatures are bringing more fresh water into the waters off Antarctica (i.e. the ice is melting). This, in turn, reduces the water's salinity which is more favorable to the Salps. Also related to this issue the amount of ice cover, underlying marine plankton, and each creature's ability to reproduce - a complex relationship I don't have time for here... Anyway, Krill and Salps are macrozooplankton grazers, occurring in vast, patchy swarms. Krill, in turn, provide food for whales, seabirds, penguins, fish, and many others. Salps, on the other hand, are much less nutritious and negatively affect the aforementioned food chain when their numbers increase at the expense of Krill.
110. Tami & Nick |
111. Neptune's Window |
112. |
113. Seal |
114. Chinstrap penguin |
115. Chinstrap penguins |
116. Hiking to Neptune's Window |
117. Neptune's Window |
118. Hiking to Neptune's Window |
119. Us at Neptune's Window |
120. Berenice pointing to moss/leichen |
121. An Antarctic "forest!" |
122. Salps |
123. Salps |
124. Krill |
125. Salps |
126. Berenice marks more Salps |
127. Salsp |
128. Starfish |
129. Starfish |
130. Tami & Roger |
131. Station ruins |
132. Whaling station ruins |
133. Whale bones |
134. Berenice, Tami, & Sandi |
135. Nick Tozer looking for me... |
136. Reluctant Polar Plunger |
137. Coming back in |
138. Beached whale... |
139. Tami & Roger |
Click Here for my YouTube video of the thermal waters in Whaler's Bay... |
Hannah Point, Walker Bay, Livingston Island, Antarctica
Hannah Point lies in Walker Bay on the southern coast of Livingston Island. It is named after a sealing vessel that was shipwrecked at this site in 1820. The site is renowned for its abundant wildlife. This includes Chinstrap Penguins, BLue-Eyed Shags, Kelp Gulls, and the sometimes Macaroni Penguins and Elephant Seals.
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145. Seal |
146. Dirty penguin |
147. Tami, Bob, & Janice |
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149. Seals |
150. Seals |
151. Seals |
152. Seals |
153. Seals |
154. Seals |
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156. Seals |
157. Gastrointestinal distress? |
Click Here for my YouTube video of the Elephant Seals at Hannah Point... |
Click Here for a YouTube video of Chin Strap penguin walking by us... |
Trails
Penguins and other wildlife ALWAYS have the right-of-way on any trails (or anywhere else) in Antarctica. Human interference with the travel of wildlife can cause these creatures to expend extra, unnecessary energy that can actually endanger and weaken them in this harsh environment. Plus, obviously, anyone (human) visiting Antarctica isn't on much of a schedule so it's easy to just stand and wait for the penguins to pass - it's fun!
158. Tami waits |
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169. Chris Collins clears the trail |
Click Here for my YouTube video of a penguin crossing... |
Miscellanea
Antarctica is a magical place that deserves our protection if for no other reason than we've decimated so much of the rest of this small planet. Antarctica's interior is quiet, clean, clear, and free of anything artificial. Antarctica's coasts, peninsula, and islands are teaming with life and variety despite human s having destroyed so many seals and whales. Imagine a land that's nearly 1.5 times the size of the United States but completely void of crowds, highways, shopping malls, factories, and all the other clutter that continues to separate us from the natural world - and that's Antarctica, the last paradise on Earth!- Roger J. Wendell, February 2011
170. Whale watching |
171. Whales |
172. Whales |
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184. Penguin waves goodbye... |
185. Rocks... |
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194. Me |
195. Us |
196. Us |
197. Juan Pablo Seco Pon |
198. Me |
199. Me |
200. Seals floating by... |
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203. Penguins swiming |
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205. Chinstrap Penguins |
206. Bundled Tami |
207. Peter Dimish's hat! |
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Click Here for a YouTube video of seals floating by us on the ice... |
Click Here for a YouTube video I took while glissading... |
Click Here for a YouTube video me on glissade as seen by Tami... |
¡
Certificado!
(signed proof that we were there!)
Surviving the Drake Passage |
Presidente Gabriel González Videla |
Polar Plunge |
Click Here for my YouTube video of the Polar Plunge... |
Species Checklist
On land and aboard ship wildlife viewing sessions were organized throughout each day. Tami and I took full advantage and participated in all of the ones we could (I missed a couple because I was too seasick...). The following is a "Species Checklist" that was compiled aboard ship. This list was recorded between January 25th and February 3rd so a lot of territory was covered. So, obviously, various species were viewed at different locations all along a journey that was well over 2,000 kilometres in length!
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